Unpacking life in Puerto Escondido: Part II

Your cheat sheet for the best cafes, restaurants, beaches, and gyms Puerto Escondido has to offer

While any beach town comes with its unique set of charms, Puerto Escondido feels like it has a special kind of magic. For decades, Puerto has been a sought-after surf destination, attracting professional surfers from around the world who were eager (and brave enough) to cut their teeth on the Mexican Pipeline — aka Zicatela’s world-renowned surf break. If you’ve been lucky enough to sink your feet into the sand of Zicatela, you’ll have felt the rumble of waves as they peak and barrel, crashing onto shore with a degree of force that lends context to the “No Nadar” signs placed across the beach. Zicatela is not a place to swim — it’s a place to surf, and even then, it’s a surf break that very few surfers have the guts to try and master.

While Puerto’s fame will always centre, first and foremost, around its surf, it also attracts a regular influx of visitors interested in everything else it has to offer — great coffee, delicious food, beautiful beaches, a thriving fitness community, a growing skate scene, and sunsets worth flocking to the beach every night for.

Having lived here for 3 months, Brian and I have had the opportunity to explore many of Puerto’s restaurants, cafes, gyms, and beaches. With little to no interest in partying, we can’t speak personally to the nightlife here — but we can offer a (still growing) list of our favourite spots to hang out, eat, drink (coffee), work remote, train, and spend a day in the sun. So, if you’re planning a trip to Puerto Escondido in the near future — this one is for you.

The Food:

Let me preface this by saying Brian and I are creatures of habit — typically, when we find something we like, we double — if not triple — down on it. So, there are still a ton of restaurants we are dying to check out, but haven’t had the chance to do so yet. The spots listed below are our personal favourites that have quickly become staples in our weekly routine.

La Ola Taqueria

Price: $
Vibe: Casual
Location: La Punta, beachfront
Favourite dish: Al pastor tacos

La Ola is a casual, unassuming taco spot tucked behind the (very popular) Fish Shack in La Punta, directly off the beach. The staff is lovely, the prices are cheap, and the tacos are delicious. La Ola has become our preferred post-gym meal — in fact, most of the staff know our order and simply ask us if we want 15 or 20 tacos as soon as they spot us walking down the alley. One of the more affordable taco joints in the area, you can get 5 tacos for $80 MXN (our go-to order is 15 al pastor tacos and two lemonades for $340 MXN, which works out to be about $24 CAD).

Fish Shack

Price: $$
Vibe: Casual
Location: La Punta, beachfront
Favourite dish: Al pastor tacos

Fish Shack seems to be a favourite amongst both locals and tourists, and often has a line forming down the street during peak times. The menu boasts an extensive array of fresh seafood options — from fish tacos to traditional fish and chips, crispy fish sandwiches, and more. Service is quick — Fish Shack operates like a well-oiled machine — and prices are reasonable, but not as cheap as other options (like La Ola). Three al pastor tacos here will run you $145 MXN ($10 CAD), with the option to add individual tacos for $50 MXN. Typically, Brian and I spend $535 MXN (Approx. $37 CAD) before tip on 9 tacos and 2 agua de piñas.

Panadería Helena

Price: $$
Vibe: Casual
Location: Brisas de Zicatela, above the main road
Favourite dish: Huevos y tocino + cinnamon bun + mocha frio

Not to be dramatic, but Helena’s cinnamon bun — made with sourdough and an icing that is light and sweet (but not too sweet) — will change your life. Their huevos y tocino breakfast (eggs + bacon with a slice of artisanal bread, and some delicious grilled vegetables) is also to die for. A modest, family-run operation, Helena’s offers a small menu, friendly faces (Hector is the best) and a tranquil backyard set-up featuring a handful of tables, a beautiful indoor-outdoor kitchen, and a roaming turkey (lol). Everything from the plates to the incredible coffee and the food itself is aesthetically presented — but I promise you, it all tastes even better than it looks. They also sell their coffee and bakery items to go, and you can order on WhatsApp ahead of time if you are worried about your favourite treats getting snatched up (trust me, they will). Helena’s is closed on Mondays, and is only open from 8-12 PM every other day.

Pepe’s Tacos

Price: $
Vibe: Casual
Location: Centro (but moving across from Helena’s in the next month)
Favourite dish: Taco de pescado

Pepe, the vibrant man behind Pepe’s Tacos, is perhaps best described as a local main character — if you live here, you know him, and you’ve most definitely had his Tacos. Pepe speaks perfect English, and is as eager to learn about you as he is willing to share his own story and history. While visiting Pepe’s, you’ll also inevitably meet two dogs he adopted off the street years ago, Bugubugu and Chikibugu, that are absolute sweethearts (and are lovingly enshrined to the wall out front thanks to a mural Pepe had made of them, along with two other dogs that have since passed).

His tacos — specifically, his fish tacos — are, without a doubt, the best fish tacos we’ve ever had. Coated with a sweet and flaky coconut crust, the fish is fresh and tender, and the heaping pile of guac and fresh fruit/salsa on top provides the perfect mix of flavour. The tacos are $70 MXN each (about $5 CAD) and massive — If you manage to eat 3 of them without feeling uncomfortably full, I would be impressed. Our go-to order is 2 taco de pescado for Brian, one for me, and two servings of Pepe’s aqua del dia. Currently, Pepe’s is still located in Centro down the street from Chedraui, but he is in the process of moving to a new location, right across from Helena’s.

Malagua

Price: $$
Vibe: Casual-upscale
Location: La Punta
Favourite dish: Eggs Benedict or an omelette

If you’re from Toronto, you’re surely familiar with Union on Ossington. Malagua, in many ways, feels like the Puerto version of that — a trendy atmosphere, aesthetically presented, farm-to-table style food (and large portions), and a young crowd of travellers and regulars who flock to the restaurant to eat, drink, socialize, and work from their laptops. The bacon is thick, the bread is fresh, the juice and coffee menu is extensive, the Wifi is reliable, and the vibes are high.

Gluttony

Price: $$$
Vibe: Casual
Location: La Punta
Favourite dish: Alfredo pasta

When — or if — you ever tire of Mexican food while visiting, Gluttony offers the familiar comforts of Italian food in an all-you-can-eat format (their official slogan is: “Eat now, repent later”). If you’re feeling truly gluttonous, opt for the AYCE, which gives you smaller pasta dishes served via a rotation (I think there are 6 different pastas offered) until you’ve had enough — Brian’s record currently sits at 8 plates. If you’re not convinced you have the appetite for AYCE, just order the “large pasta” option of whatever pasta you like. Gluttony also offers an AYCE bread and salad add-on, as well as an all you can drink option, if you’re really going for it. This tends to be a more expensive dinner out for us, but when you consider the amount of food, it feels like a pretty good deal.

The Boneyard

I’m adding this one to the list not necessarily for the food, but for what it is: Puerto’s first skate bowl and preferred hangout for skaters and surfers alike. With a tattoo shop upstairs, a skate shop, and tables arranged around the huge, concrete skate bowl, many patrons will go simply to watch the action while getting a drink or a bite to eat. Not to mention, Boneyard is also known for throwing some epic parties.

Campestre

Price: $$$
Vibe: Upscale
Location: La Punta
Favourite dish: New York strip with roasted potatoes

With a menu offering “authentic Argentine flavours cooked over a wood fire”, Campestre is a great place to go for a more elevated dining experience — especially if you’re someone who loves a perfectly grilled steak or seafood dish. It’s certainly not cheap by Puerto standards, but the atmosphere is gorgeous, the service is attentive, and the food is great.

Other honourable mentions:

Pizzería Il Salento: Great pizza, friendly staff, casual environment and reasonable prices.

La Case Del Surfer: Great, fresh fish tacos and other healthy options like avocado toast or smoothie bowls. A bit more expensive but large portions and friendly staff — a favourite amongst the surf crowd in La Punta.

CHUCHAQUI: Good breakfast, a variety of fresh juice/smoothie and coffee options, friendly service, and plenty of (shaded) seating as well as reliable Wifi.

Birria del Puerto: Friendly staff and delicious birria tacos (you can get a “Combo Breaker” of 3 tacos for $100 MXN), located right in the mercado.

Pow! Protein Bar: A great grab-and-go or sit-and-enjoy option for protein shakes, protein coffee, or smoothie bowls with two locations, one in Wolf La Punta, and one in Paradise Gym over in Zicatela.

Gustav Grün: Our favourite healthy grab-and-go option in La Punta for bowls or wraps — you can choose from their menu or make your own, with tons of fresh ingredient to pile on. We typically do the “Create your own” bowl with teriyaki chicken, rice/salad base and toppings (beets, sweet carrots, feta cheese, guac, corn, sesame seeds, nuts, and a dressing) for $195 MXN (Approx $14 CAD).

Coffee + Cafes:

Sandala Cafe

Price: $$
Vibe: Casual
Location: Tamarindos
Favourite dish: Shakshuka + mocha frio

Sandala is a gorgeous, tucked away gem (think: backyard oasis) with good music, plenty of seating, friendly staff, and fresh, healthy food. Service is on the slower side, but it’s simply because they take great care in everything they do.

Me Latte

Price: $$
Vibe: Casual, beach-front
Location: Zicatela
Go-to order: Acai bowl + americano frio

Me Latte is a quaint, beach-front cafe open morning until late afternoon that offers an unobstructed view of Zicatela’s famous waves, tons of seating and plenty of shade. The food is great, the coffee is good, service is friendly (but slow), and there is ample space for anyone looking for a co-working spot (with direct beach access, no less).

Atico Cafe

Price: $
Vibe: Casual
Location: La Punta
Go-to order: Avocado toast with eggs + americano frio

Atico is off the main strip, but still nestled in the heart of La Punta, offering great coffee and a small menu with some delicious breakfast options and pastries. Seating is limited, but the ambience makes up for it with small, shaded bistro tables (and one larger table) thoughtfully arranged into a garden-style hideout.

Ojitos

Price: $
Vibe: Casual
Location: La Punta, off the main road
Go-to order: Americano frio + chocolate roll

Ojitos is a roadside gem between La Punta and La Barra, and about a 5 minute walk from where we currently live. The coffee is delicious, as is the chocolate roll (a welcomed twist on your traditional chocolate croissant). There is also an adorable dog usually there, who — if you’re anything like me — you will quickly fall in love with.

Surf Skate Society (El Lugar)

Price: $
Vibe: Casual
Location: La Punta, above the main road
Go-to order: Americano frio or agua del dia

If you’re into skateboarding, Surf Skate Society will feel like a unique kind of haven. With a covered, open area for flat-ground skating (and skateboarding classes) that’s surrounded by ramps, as well as a newly constructed half pipe, no shortage of seating with plenty of shade and large tables that each have their own plugs, it’s hard to imagine you would find a place (or a community) like this anywhere else.

Other honourable mentions:

Cafe Rosa: Our favourite family-run spot to grab coffee in the mercado

El Petit Cafe: Our go-to place for fresh sourdough, croissants, and organic eggs (and the prices are great — $65 MXN for a loaf of bread compared to $120 MXN in the mercado).

Suku’un: A very small, very cute cafe in La Punta, with attentive, friendly service and a great selection of coffees, juices, and smoothies.

The Acai Bar: Located in the Burger MX co-working food court in La Punta, the Açai Bar offers a selection of organic, superfood-infused fresh juices, açai bowls, and smoothies (as well as coffee). Our favourite is the “Electrolit” bowl.

The Gyms

Wolf La Punta

Membership costs:
Open gym drop-in with shower access: $150 MXN
Coach WOD drop-in with shower access: $250 MXN
All-access monthly membership: $2,250 MXN
+ other options

Wolf Terrace is a well-known fitness brand with various gym locations spread across Mexico City and now, a new location in Puerto Escondido. The space is clean, gorgeous, and super aesthetic (especially for IG-sharing purposes), the equipment is new and well-maintained, and they even have a sauna and a cold plunge tub. You can choose between coach-led classes or open gym, with classes typically running in the morning (8 and 9 AM) and evening (7 PM). Open gym typically runs from 10 AM until 1 PM, and 3 PM until 7 PM). If you visit, make sure to check out Brian’s Mobility class Friday’s at 10 AM (shameless plug).

La Colonia BJJ

Membership costs:
Class drop-in: $250 MXN
Monthly unlimited membership: $1,200 MXN

La Colonia is a local Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu gym with an open-air layout, sweeping views of the surrounding fields and the ocean, and a strong sense of community (that noticably intersects with the local surf community). Members are incredibly welcoming and kind, and the instructors are all highly skilled, patient, and passionate about what they do. They offer a mix of fundamentals and all levels classes, and have Gis available for rent if you don’t have your own. If you’re into martial arts (specifically, BJJ), this is the spot for you.

Escondido Thai Camp / Paradise Gym

Membership costs:
Prices vary depending on class

If you’re familiar with the Muay Thai fight gyms and camps born out of Thailand, Escondido Thai Camp offers a similar experience, but directly off Zicatela beach. With a ring nestled in the middle of Paradise Gym, plenty of heavy bags swaying in the breeze, and a roster of experienced, highly-skilled coaches, Escondido Thai Camp is an incredible place to get an authentic Muay Thai training experience, or simply learn a new skill and get in better shape. They offer two class formats: Thai Camp (1.5 hour long classes modelled after traditional fight camps with dedicated pad work rounds led by multiple coaches), and Fundamentals, with two classes in the morning and two in the evening. Paradise Gym also offers a variety of classes outside of Escondido Thai Camp, including yoga, mobility, and beach bootcamps. You can catch Brian’s mobility class here (on the beach) on Wednesdays at 5:45 PM, just in time for sunset.

CLETA

Membership costs:
Class drop-in: $200 MXN
Spin class drop-in: $220 MXN
Class packs and unlimited memberships also available

If you’re a group fitness fan, CLETA offers a variety of class styles that are sure to appeal to you — from spin to pilates, barre, mobility, strength, and now boxing (courtesy of yours truly). The studio boasts AC and fans (a coveted luxury in a place like Puerto) in addition to cool lights and a dark interior that contribute to a more “boutique” fitness experience. Currently, I teach the “Box Lab” class on Friday’s at 9 AM, and Brian teaches a Stick Mobility class on Thursdays at 5 PM.

Other honourable mentions/popular spots:

Tandem Gym (Tamarindos)
Black Gym (La Punta)
El Workout (La Punta)
Crossfit 954 (Centro)
Lobos Fitness (Centro)
SHRED group fitness classes (various locations)
Satsanga Yoga (La Punta)
Coliseo (Zicatela)

The Beaches

There are no shortage of beautiful beaches along the Puerto Escondido coast — which ones you prefer will largely depend on what you’re into (surfing, swimming, or simply soaking up the sun and the views). Admittedly, we haven’t spent a ton of time exploring all the beaches (yet) — like I said, creatures of habit — but we can still provide a few recommendations.

Playa Zicatela

This is the beach/the surf break that put Puerto on the map! Zicatela, as you might have guessed, is best for intermediate surfing, wave-watching, walking your dog, catching the sunset, and/or laying out on the large stretch of beach — just don’t plan on going swimming in this area.

La Punta Zicatela

If you walk south along Zicatela, you’ll typically find a calmer stretch of sea (that is safe to swim, depending on the day) and plenty of prime spots to spend the day in the sun and watch the sunset. Many of the local surf schools take students out over towards the point, and many locals also surf in this area, but be warned — it’s not known to be a welcoming surf spot to non-locals (aside from students of the surf schools).

La Barra

La Barra is tucked away at the far end of the bay, where the river meets the sea. It’s less developed than nearby beaches and typically far less crowded, and it’s a favourite for watching sunsets or simply enjoying a more secluded beach day. The tide is strong here, however, and the waves can be heavy. Given the lack of lifeguard presence on this stretch of beach, swimming is not recommended.

Playa Carrizalillo

A small, picture-perfect beach with turquoise waters and golden, brown sugar-like sand, you’ve definitely seen Carrizalillo splashed across Instagram or TikTok at some point. To get down to the beach, you descend a long staircase of about 160-ish steps, but the effort is definitely worth it. This beach is also a favourite for beginner surfers (the waves are more mellow here) and it’s a great place to swim.

Playa Coral

A great option for anyone looking for a more secluded and picturesque (but way less crowded) beach. Visitors can access Playa Coral by walking through the hotel grounds of Villa Mexicana (and paying a small fee to do so) or hiking from Playa Bacocho (there’s a rocky path if the tide isn’t too high).

Not a beach — but definitely worth the visit: Cascada La Reforma waterfall

This stunning, off-the-beaten-path waterfall is about an 1.5 hour drive from Puerto by car. Be warned, however, it’s not an easy drive and requires a more robust vehicle to get there. The roads leading up the mountain are winding, narrow (I have no idea what you would do if you encountered a car coming in the opposite direction at certain points of the drive), and roughly constructed — think: dirt, potholes, and rocks. You’ll find yourself passing through a couple tiny, remote villages and some pretty incredible views on your slow ascent up the mountain and, once you park, the waterfall is a short hike away. Since it is — quite literally — off the beaten path, I don’t think it typically attracts crowds. In fact, the day we went, we had the waterfall and its accompanying plunge pool entirely to ourselves.

Okay — that’s all I have for you for now (kudos to you, if you made it this far). Bookmark this post if you’re planning on visiting Puerto Escondido in the near future, and keep your eyes out for future posts as we inevitably add to our list of favourite local spots and experiences.